paros
Sitting in the centre of the Cyclades group of islands Paros is a popular destination for beautiful beaches and crystal clear water, Cycladic villages and plenty to satisfy the historian in you, with Paros being inhabited for over 5000 years. The mighty Cretans were the first inhabitants, followed by among others the Minoans, Ionians, Romans and Byzantians.
Paroikia is the island’s lively capital and port, and main transport hub for the island. It is a lovely place with the old traditional village sitting within the main town, here you will find alleyways leading to medieval buildings including the Frankish Castle built in the 1200 century. Make sure to enjoy the promenade starting 1km south of the bus station, heading north to Livadia beach, plenty of bars and restaurants offer dreamy views out to sea.
Also make sure to check out Panagia Ekatontapyliani (Our Lady of the Hundred Gates), an amazing Byzantine church which is now an Orthodox Church, is actually 3 churches and has a history going back to AD326. The largest, Agios Nikolaos, is the most impressive with columns of Parian marble, you can also see the Baptistery and the Byzantine museum. It is free to enter.
Nearby, you will find the Archaeological Museum of Paros (€3), this is an easy museum to look around and should take you about an hour to complete. There are some outstanding pieces including the first Greek example of a seated figure, probably Artemis, dating back to a mind blowing 8th century BC. Also, the winged statue of Gorgon, the marble statue of Nike, and two marble relief plates of the Memorial of Archilochus, plus Cycladic figurines and mosaics.
Parian marble was sought out in ancient times for it’s semi translucent, pure white qualities, and was used in some of the Greek masterpieces including the Winged Victory of Samothrace, the Venus de Milos, and even Napoleon’s tomb. There are a number of quarries dotted around the island, the closest to Paroikia being the Marathi Quarries. We didn’t visit the quarries as it’s usually quite hot, and does leave a lot to the imagination. And it is a bit of a pilgrimage site for patriotic French people…so if you’re a fan of Napoleon…
Other historical sites include the Venetian Castle in Naoussa, which is best viewed from the colourful harbour, and the beautiful Monastery of St John’s of Deti, which is also close to Monastiri beach, one of the best beaches in Paros (take a water taxi from Naoussa).
If you’re staying in Paroikia make sure to take a water taxi across the bay to Krios and Marchello beaches, or take a day trip from here to Antiparos island. You will find all the major operators situated to the east of the famous Windmill of Paros. Other beaches worth visiting are Golden Beach, Santa Maria, and Piso Livardi.
As usual, the timing of the ferry arrival with the bus departure to Naoussa didn’t align, so we shared a taxi costing €30 per couple. We stayed at the lovely family run Akti Resort a few km’s away from the action. It was such a beautiful place with a great swimming pool and sea views across the Bay of Naoussa that we could literally enjoy laying on our bed. Breakfast was freshly made each morning with something for everyone, and a nice taverna to enjoy fresh seafood in the evening.
The main road to Naoussa was a 10 minute walk, and then a 10 minute bus ride after that. As usual, you pay the driver €2, €2.50, or €3 (depending on distance) cash per trip. Another handy bus stop was very close to Akti, this takes you to the famous Kolympethres beach (starting and returning to/from Naoussa) where you can enjoy sitting amongst the huge rocks, and taking a dip in the crystal clear water. We walked from Akti to Kolympethres in about 20 minutes. It is possible to tie in the bus to or from Kolympethres to get to Naoussa via Akti, if you don’t want the 10 minute walk to the main road. Check the timetable posted near the bus stop. There’s also a number of water taxis from Naoussa that will take you to Kolympethres for a €10 return trip.
We always try to use public transport when we can, and if you’re not confident driving on the right then it’s best not to risk it. You can purchase a day ticket to use on public transport, this is great value except you can’t buy this ticket on the bus but have to buy it at one of the main ticket offices. Pain! Here’s their website ktelparou.gr/en/, I haven’t linked as site says Not Secure, up to you.
Naoussa is perhaps the most popular village on the island. Well known for it’s upscale hotels, waterfront tavernas and some glitzy cocktail bars. Don’t worry it’s not as busy as Mykonos and is a great place to base yourself for a few nights. The area to the south and the east of the rectangular harbour still has plenty of character and charm, with narrow paths and whitewashed buildings.
A number of popular restaurants overlook the harbour but we opted for the smaller taverns on the beach to the east. Taverna Glafkos was right up there with the best, wonderful food, friendly waiters and a gorgeous view.
Finally, don’t forget to visit Lefkes. Easily accessible by bus, gorgeous Lefkes is the quintessential Greek village, adorned with bougainvillea, photogenic narrow lanes, some fab Greek tavernas, and pretty orthodox churches. Everyone gravitates to the Byzantine gem, the Church of Agia Tirada (Holy Trinity) and the pretty little square in it’s foreground, made from Parian marble, the church has beautiful frescoes, twin bell towers, and a peaceful graveyard that has lovely scenic views.
While in the square take time to let the atmosphere of the place wash over you as you enjoy a snack and drink at Cafe Marigo. Sit in the shade or under the bougainvillea, and indulge in homemade sweet and savoury treats while enjoying a coffee or freshly squeezed lemonade. The lemonade is extremely sweet (as it is everywhere in Greece), so if you’re not a sweet tooth ask for no sugar and you can add your own to suit.
It’s an easy bus ride from either Parikia or Naoussa and then you can continue on to the beaches of the east coast. Or if you’re into hiking take the Byzantine route to Prodromos and then onto Marpissa, it can be a little slippery walking over the cobblestone path so walking shoes are recommended, as is a hat and plenty of water. If you do go to Marpissa, make sure you check out the famed Pink House, and the pretty Orthodox Church next door.
In summary, Páros is an unmissable stop on your Greek odyssey with it’s blend of beautiful beaches, rich heritage, traditional villages and cosmopolitan vibe in the towns of Paroikia and Naoussa. For more information check out www.greeka.com/cyclades/paros/